Adjusting Patterns for Fit (part 1)

Adjusting Patterns for Fit (part 1)

Adjusting Patterns for Fit (part 1)

How to adjust the pattern so - One of my favorite things about sewing is playing with patterns. I don’t think I ever sew a pattern without messing with it anymore. It’s just fun. When I’m sewing for me, it’s a must. I am, shall we say, curvy, in some areas and not so much in others. O I’ll just come out with it. I am busty with no butt! I’m like an upside down triangle and there is not a standard sewing pattern out there cut to my proportions. I even have to adjust my OWN patterns! Now a lot of people seem to be hesitant to change anything on a pattern. I say you should jump right in and get your hands dirty! Unless your proportions fit neatly into a pattern’s sizing charts, a little customization may be just what you need for the perfect fit.

So as not to come off too overwhelming, for this intro post I am just going to go over a couple of basic things to know and do to be able to fit your patterns better. If there is any interest, I will be happy to expand further on the subject in other posts.

Let’s start out by talking about sizing charts. Each pattern designer, big or small, has had to develop their own sizing charts. The reason for this is that there is no reliable standard for body measurements available. The ASTM has some charts for purchase but their data is really outdated and people are bigger now. Size USA did a huge detailed measurements survey in 2004, but when I contacted them for their data, I found out it costs $10,000 for just a PORTION of the measurements they took! Anyway, I could go on, but I don’t want to get too off track. The point is, no one has an absolute standard measurement chart to work off of and must come up with one of their own. The same goes for RTW companies. That’s why an 8 at the Gap is different than an 8 at New York and Company. This is why it’s so important to pay attention to the measurement charts in your patterns. You can still acheive a great fit despite sizing discrepancies.

Preparation

Let’s take a look at a sample size chart.

This is the chart for my Women’s Cowl Neck Tee. As you can see, there are a range of measurements for each size. This is an indicator that the shirt isn’t incredibly fitted (as far as knits go), and there is some room for forgiveness (Yay for knits!). In very fitted patterns, you have to be more careful about your adjustments. My measurements fall into three different sizes (I know!) Starting from the top I am an XL in the bust, a L at the waist and a M at the hips (Oy sometimes I wish I had junk in my trunk!). Now, if I was between sizes at any point, or close to the cusp for one of the measurements, I would totally fudge it and only use two sizes. Knit patterns are more forgiving, especially ones that aren’t skin tight.

Now let’s take a peek at the finished measurements chart. This is an important step as it can give you an idea of how much ease is built into the pattern (basically, how the pattern will fit you).



Comparing, the finished measurements to the size measurements will help you figure out if you really do need to adjust between sizes. The difference between the two is the ease (in a nutshell, it’s how much space there is between you and the clothing). For example, my hips are 39” (99 cm). The medium will give me 1” (2.5 cm) of ease (40-39=1) compared to 3” (7.6 cm) in the large (42-39 = 3). When I sewed this up, my preference was for less ease in the hips since I was sewing the waistband option. Since the pattern is only slightly fitted in the first place, it really does just come down to your preference here. You decide how you want it to fit. You’re the boss! If you are working with a fitted pattern that hugs your curves, you will need to be more careful with your adjustments.

If your pattern does not have a finished measurements chart, do not despair! Just measure the pattern at the point you are interested in (chest, waist, or hips for this pattern) and subtract any seam allowances, pleats, gathers, and/or darts. There you have your finished measurement!

Pattern Adjustments

Now it’s time to take out the pattern! If your pattern is nested (all of the sizes stacked into one another), adjustments are easy. If your pattern isn’t nested, you can nest them yourself by tracing the sizes you need onto a large sheet of paper.



The first thing to do is note about where on the pattern the measurements you are dealing with pertain.





This is where you are going to make the needed adjustments. Adjusting between nested sizes is super easy, I promise. You don’t have to be extremely accurate or start or stop at certain points. Just make sure you are adjusting in the general area that pertains to the measurement you are adjusting for.

Make sure the curve transitions into the existing pattern lines smoothly. The only real rule here with this example is that the side seam needs to meet the hem at a 90 degree angle.  Really, that’s it! It’s as simple as that!




The only thing you can really mess up here is the shape of your curve. It doesn’t need to be exactly placed, but it does need to be smooth. If you use an elongated S-shaped curve you will end up with bumps in your seam.





Now cut the pattern out along the new lines you have drawn. You will also need to make the same adjustments to any corresponding pattern pieces. For this example, that means I need to draw a curve on the front pattern piece to match the side seam of this one (this one is the back of the shirt). I like to do it by lining up the pattern piece I already adjusted on top of the one I still need to cut, and tracing the line so it matches perfectly. This also means you don’t have to go through the whole process twice!



Adjusting the length of a pattern is even easier. All you need is to know the finished length of the garment, and how it compares to the length you desire. The easiest way to adjust length is by just taking up the hem after you have sewn the garment (when applicable of course). However, you can easily lengthen or shorten any pattern by cutting and spreading/overlapping. Where you make your cut lines is really up to you. Just try to make them in as simple of a place as you can. Don’t be scared!  For this example, I have two cut lines marked. One above the waistline curve for adjusting where the waistline hits you (long or short torsos) and one below the waistline curve that is for adjusting where the hem falls (I prefer pattern adjustments to messing with knit hems, but you can forego that line if you would like). Just make sure that you do the same to the back as you do to the front and likewise.





You can lengthen, shorten, or do a combination of the two to your heart’s content. For example, what if I had a longer upper torso, but I liked the hem length the way it is now? I would cut and spread it at the top line whatever amount I require (so the waitline curve matches my waistline), and then I would cut and overlap on the bottom line the same amount to bring it back to its original length. In effect, just moving the waistline curve farther down the shirt.



I told you! Adjusting patterns isn’t scary at all! It isn’t going to break if you mess with it and mess with it you can. If it’s a PDF pattern, you can always print it again. If you are working with tissue patterns, I suggest tracing it out first so you don’t accidentally ruin the original (you’re probably already doing that anyway). So get out there and be creative! Have fun! Just remember to measure twice and cut once and you will be fine.

If you are ever worried about any adjustments you have made to a pattern, muslins are your friend. I have to agree with Gertie on this one, I’ve never regretted making a muslin.

Ok I think I’ve talked your ear off enough for one post. If you made it this far, congrats and thank you! I hope you enjoyed the ride and I would love to know what you think!  Do you adjust your patterns often? If not, why? What aspects of pattern adjustments would you like to explore next?

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